Monday, May 26, 2008

Kananaskis Finally

This literary masterpiece could also be titled "Snow. snow, snow Rain, rain, rain". However if I can recall the past month or so our experiences were as follows....Our departure from Osoyoos was somewhat bittersweet as we left summerlike temperatures and cherry blossoms and headed for good old Alberta. Others from the park who left before us reported road closing blizzards and minus 30 degree cold. We, on the other hand, kept delaying as reports of winter conditions continued. Finally on April 24 we set out, spent a night alongside friends in Enderby, then travelled through constantly changing conditions along the TransCanada, tempted at times to pull over and wait it out. Perseverence paid off as the weather cooperated enough to allow us to turn south onto the no. 40 for the last leg of our journey and into Kananaskis Country. It seems no matter how many times you see them the mountains are always breathtakingly beautiful,especially when you're as close as the 40 brings you to their base. Fresh snow, unbelievably white glistened in the sunlight. Numerous deer, sheep and occassional elk grazed by the road and we began to realize we were home....at least for the next five months. Pulling into the park we were surprised at the amount of snow still ligering from winter storms. At least 3 feet covered the ground except where it had been cleared to accomodate our motorhome. After a warm greeting from the boss we settled in among the trees. Next day my marching orders were given...clear snow (3 feet remember) drom the camping sites. I had envisioned shovelling and wondering if I would be buried in the mountains but, happily, was informed that I would be the designated skid-steer operator. The job had already begun as one of the eight camps had been cleared. That left about six hundred sites yet to be cleared. This little task took the better part of a week and we had no sooner finished when we were unceremoniously dumped on by another 3 feet of snow. Thus began the job all over again. Since opening date was quickly approaching there was a sense of urgency to the task. To our amazement campers actually settled in among the huge piles of snow and the seemingly endless skiffs that were a daily occurence. Just when we wondered if the snow would ever end the rain began. Steady rain for more than a week has become a bit dreary and still today we see high stream warnings along the eastern slopes. Although Nan's main job is to man the store and therefore is mostly under cover I on the other hand have come home soaked.
When we arrived we were informed that we would not be full time camp managers after all but rather on the maintenance crew. At first we thought we may be getting the short end of the stick but soon discovered the change was in our favour.We do get our share of managing when we fill in for those on days off and are happy that we don't have to make the camp tours at all hours let alone confront unruly campers. So...realizing that the wheel has turned our way, Nan is happy to meet the public in the store and I am happy to operate equipment...Skidsteer, forklift and pickertruck. It's very interesting to take part in the behind the scenes operation of a large camp ground. As yet, the main camping season has not arrived and we've been assured that things get pretty hectic when that happens.
On our 2 days off ( usually mon. and tue.) we,ve had to drive into Calgary, about an hour and a half one way, but this week we've managed to stay home . With gas at its present price it's a welcome change. Hope this finds you all well and we extend the invitation to you all, if at all possible, to drop in and visit. Remember our only means of communication is the internet so contact us first. Also feel free to write us...we'd love to hear from you. For those who care, Benson has adapted well but would rather spend more time outside. Hopefully when it warms up.
Hope this finds you all well and happy.
Dave, Nan and Benson

Friday, April 18, 2008

Attempting to Leave Osoyoos

With mixed feelings we pack up our gear and make plans for pulling up stakes. Mixed in that we feel our time in Osoyoos has passed far too quickly; we have yet to experience the 30 degree weather the brochure promised; we will be parting from good friends we have acquired versus anticipation of returning to the area we consider home. Our plans were to be in the Kananaskis the middle of April but Ian (park manager) advised we postpone our return as temperatures were not yet conducive to RV living. Since March was so hectic we readily agreed to spend a few more days in Nk'mip and aimed instead for the 20th. Now we see that the eastern slopes are experiencing an Ian Tyson spring..."another winter storm comes rolling in". A foot of snow is in the forecast and as of this morning has already begun to fall. Ian again has advised we consider waiting out the storm which certainly is the sensible thing to do. Now we are aiming for Tuesday unless the report advises otherwise. Stay tuned for further developments.

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Winter in Osoyoos

Due to overwhelming demand (two or three inquiries as to our whereabouts) we are continuing the reporting of our exciting saga ....Life in a Motor home, Adventures with Benson or some other dramatic title. So here goes... The New Year finds Osoyoos gripped in the icy grasp (or is it grasped in the icy grip)of winter. During the night the temperature dropped to -10 leaving a film of ice on the lake giving us sole access to the beach. The directionally challenged geese, ducks and coots are sitting huddled on the ice in tight groups probably saying to each other, "this isn't what the brochure said". We're discovering that Osoyoos, like so many other places, is unpredictable as far as weather prediction is concerned. Locals say this winter is warmer than last yet some report that past winters never experienced frost. Yesterday I heard that in earlier years ice was harvested from the lake and stored in a huge ice house for summer use. So I guess we shouldn't expect continuous sunshine and sweltering temperatures regardless of the area's claim to be Canada's only desert. Upon arrival here at the Nk'mip (pronounced ink a meep) we were impressed with the spacious grounds, huge weeping willows, paved lanes and proximity to the beautiful lake. Some may feel that was only a ploy to suck us in but having settled in we find there are pluses regardless of the bare trees, the icy roads and cold wind blowing off the water. We have access to a inside heated pool, hot tub, club house and, close at hand, a delightful little town with all amenities including, to my delight, a grand old building housing painter and potter facilities with room for me to do my sculpting. I had started carving in a tent we set up beside the bus but the novelty soon faded as the temperature dropped. The art building, which also houses a gallery, was the original RCMP offices, living quarters and cells. Aside from the obligatory Tim Horton's there are numerous coffee shops,restaurants and dollar stores. Weekends offer flea markets while any time one can travel the winding back roads through orchards and over rugged picturesque hills and valleys. The scenery is very unique as the surrounding hills (some say mountains)are like huge rocks with a few tenacious trees gripping crevices on impossible angles. You have to wonder how much moisture they get but the trees are obviously healthy. Strange bushes, straggly grass and many varieties of thorns and cacti cover the sandy soil behind the park so it is expedient that one stay on the trails, as Benson soon discovered. Aside from waterfowl many deer, coyotes and those endearing little California quails parade through the park. The quail are queer little birds who march(run) in tight formation with their funny waddle feathers bobbing in front of them, also known as little soldiers. Nan, of course, is feeding the birds...many colorful varieties like we used to see in Waiparous. With Nan's sewing and my sculpting we're usually pretty busy and don't always attend functions available to us.
March will find us heading for Calgary...mostly for medical reasons though it will be great to see many of you again. Should we not see you then be assured that we often think of you and look forward to our next meeting. Til then...love to all.
Dave, Nan and Benson

Friday, August 31, 2007

The Cassiar Crawl

Aug 28/07 - Even before leaving on our trip we talked about returning on the Cassiar Highway. Every chance we got we asked about the condition of the road as various reports concerned us about the wisdom of our choice. The last traveller we questioned assured us that although recently washed out in the Dease Lake area by early, heavy rains it was now in passable condition. For the past two days we have averaged about 50 km/hr as the road is in many places, still being repaired with many stretches covered with loose gravel. The rains must have been torrential as in several places the road had been completely rebuilt. The scenery however was no disappointment. For several miles we travelled beside a wide valley containing swamp, lush grass and clumps of low willow - and not one moose!

A young black bear and a cross fox on the road was all the wildlife we encountered. But tonight the drive seems worthwhile as the motorhome is sitting mere feet from the edge of stunning Kinoskan Lake. Fish are jumping, (trout-not stocked) the water is still and in the background rugged mountains slope down to the lake. After a delicious outdoor supper we sat beside the water and watched a loon searching for his repast. To reiterate - the weather has been superb so tonight as we hunker down we don't mind that a few raindrops are falling. Better this than snow as we have heard is the plight of our friends who we left days ago further north.

Aug 31 - This evening finds us in Cache Creek - cheek to joul with long week-end campers and a delightful young couple from Germany - who say my name sounds like it came from the south of Germany in the Tyrol area.

To sum up the past few days - rain, mud, road repairs and gravel. and when the Cassiar finally became a road - hills and valleys with lots of twists and turns. No complaints though - even if we are spoiled Albertans.

We've decided to slide over to Vancouver to Nan's grandkids and therefor have done very little sight-seeing in our attempt to make miles. The country-side, lately, is not mountainous but still offers a lot of scenery. Travelling along the Fraser the hills are sometimes tree covered, other times valleys open up and farms and ranches appear. The farms almost all sport old log buildings - cabin, once grand houses and even bank barns. I'm reminded of books I've read by Grant MacEwan about the cattle drives along this route to the gold fields of the Yukon. Those men were a tough breed as they pushed large herds through uncharted country and across large rivers and lakes. You can't begrudge them the princely sum of a dollar a pound they got for the their beef!

That concludes our Yukon adventure - stayed for further developments.

Monday, August 27, 2007

Starting Our Way Back

Aug 23 - Having reconnected with our Whitehorse friends we were prepared to take up where we left off. The Beringia Museum centered on the history of wildlife and natives of the Yukon. It was fascinating to see evidence (skeletons and tusks) of mammoths and mastadons that were once so prolific and contemporary to the native people. It seems animals were so much larger then including many varieties of cats; lions and tigers and would you believe giant sloths and beavers. Remember how we were taught that "science" knew that North American horses were no bigger than dogs and had 3 toes! The museum now displays evidence of a single-hoofed horse at least the size of a Welsh pony - and it actually looked like a horse! I knew it ---
Another interesting point with the melting of mountain top glaciers many spears and arrows are being found beneath the ice as men once hunted caribou that sought the coolness of the ice during the summer. An item of more recent history was the paddle-wheeler, the Klondike, which plied the Yukon river transporting people and goods to Dawson City. The boat is 240ft long, 49 ft wide and required only four feet of water while carrying 300 tons. Because of the shifting gravel bars the pilots would sometimes have to reverse the paddle wheel, back off the bar and try another channel. Occasionally one of the approximately 600 steamers were run aground so badly they were abandoned where their remains can still be seen.

Aug 24 - Our friends graciously drove us south to Skagway which is 15 miles across the bay from Haines, Alaska. The town is very well preserved and still sports wooden sidewalks. Most of the people in town came off a couple of huge cruise ships though we did see some cowboys from High River who drove up for the fishing. The trip there and back was the highlight as we drove very close and personal to high and rocky crags and over waterfalls rushing down to the Pacific. We marvelled at the train climbing the White Pass along the Chilkoot Trail where prospectors carried their provisions over the 35 mile divide before there were tracks. Every man was required to bring 1 ton of food & supplies to avoid starving. Some tried the trip with horses and mules but most of the animals never completed the trip. Long, wide valleys of ancient lava held many small lakes, then we entered Yukon again to huge lakes and tree covered valleys. Many of the mountain tops are so high they are nost often clothed in clouds. Today was no exception as their proximity to the coast causes a lot of moisture.

On the way down we were very pleased to be entertained by a grizzly sow and her yearling cub eating berries in the ditch beside the highway - they are spectacular animals & we have many pictures of them including one where mom gave the cub a playful cuff. Better him than me.

Our next stop was a small village called Carcross on the head of Bennett Lake which had given many homes water floors because of the high water in the Yukon. We also watched a couple of native fellows wood carving, creating beautiful work, best described as huge masks. Unfortunately, way too big for the motor home.

The effect this part of the world has on many people was exemplified by a dear couple who parked next to us in Haines Junction. They are from Los Angeles where he had an exciting career as a helicopter pilot for the LA fire department. In May they flew to Alaska, went home to move their son into their home and headed back to Alaska to live. A common story is - "we came to work for a year, that was in '74! There's a real sense of community in the north as well as the opportunity to live close to some of the most awesome scenery in the world. I told a park warden if the weather was like this year round I'd move up here and she said 'so would half the country'.

Aug 27 - Leaving Dawson Peaks Yukon it's 10:30 am til next edition.

Thursday, August 23, 2007

The Mighty Yukon River

August 19/20 - Catching pike on an arm of Kluane Lake and snapping photos of eagles was a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Monday found us on Kathleen Lake again -this time on our own personal tour with a berry picking session on an island. It seems every time we're out the mountains, lakes and rivers seem more spectacular. While glassing the nearby mountain slopes we spotted several herd/flocks(?) of mountain goats.

Tuesday my buddy's wife became our tour guide while he participated in a native entrepreneurial(?) presentation. We headed north on the Alaska Highway again to an old abandoned trading post the head of the lake called Silver City. There were the most log buildings we'd ever seen in one spot as it was a village at one time, about 1900 or slightly before. The main industry was raising foxes and the number of log and chicken wire cages was amazing. Some of the buildings comprised of NWMP detachment and to stand in those buildings and imagine the human dynamics that took place there was awe inspiring. The sad part is the no one has taken the time to maintain the buildings, pens and fences. It would be a real tourist attraction had it been kept up.

From there we crossed Slim's River which used to drain Kluane Lake a short distance south to the Pacific Ocean. After the glacial ice dam melted that blocked the water on the north end of the lake the water began to flow northward to join the Yukon on its 2000 mile trip to the Bering Sea. The cliffs around the lake still bear evidence of the form lake level 30 ft above the present. The irony of the Yukon River is it begins its journey a mere 15 miles from the Pacific. Seeing this wide river so close (relatively) to its beginning I can't imagine how huge it must be after travelling so far and taking in all the other rivers along the way.

Next stop was Burwash Landing where my friend grew up. We met some of his extended family and there seems to be quite a few them. At the very impressive museum there I bought a book about the history of the RCMP in Yukon which featured a full page and photo of his grandfather.

We ended our tour with another great meal at our friend's with bison steaks with all the trimmings finished with a peach & strawberry cake. Those of you who we will see on our return will notice we've grown in more ways than knowledge and experience.

August 22 - Sadly we have taken our leave of Haines Junction and our friends there. Nan is quite adamant that she could live there and that she was offered two jobs. If she has two - I won't need any!

Back on the road so there will be more.

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Kluane Again

August 18 - Today we were treated to another trip to Kluane and the cabin - this time with boat and fishing gear. The boat is inflatable, has an outboard motor and easily handled my friend and I. On a small lake formed by a creek which runs into Kluane we set out on our quest for pike. My guide being very experience in the sport, removed the hooks from a lure and casted across beds of weeds. This drew the fish out to the open where I dropped in my lure and started catching fish. The two were about 10 lbs and then a smaller one and a couple got away. (That's a typical fishing story) We only kept one. The high light for me was a walk along a high ridge between two lakes to a tall old spruce with an eagle next perched near the top. A single, very large juvenile looked down at me with very little concern while its beautiful very large mother flew around me squalling her displeasure.

On the way back to the cabin we encountered a fat, half-grown black bear who seemed quite spooky. When we arrived at the cabin the girls said "Guess who we had for a visitor! They said the bear was just climbing on the deck when he heard a sound from the cabin and high-tailed it.

We're all rather disappointed in our four-legged guardians as not a one of them rose to the girls defense, let alone sound the alarm but rather thought it expedient to keep a low profile throughout the incident. Discretion is the greater part of valor' must be their byword.

I got a taste of Nan's affliction as I had turned any ankle on a rock and couldn't put any weight on it. During the night I felt a slight click and today am on my way to recovering. Nan seems fine if she doesn't sit too long, walk too far or get too hot. She doesn't spend enough time resting - so I usually show her how it's done.

We finally visited with the folks we met in Liard. It was fun recounting experiences of long ago as she was on the basketball team in Duchess and of course knows all my relatives from there. I usually try to limit myself to one helping per (for obvious reasons) but the bbq salmon, salad and steamed veggies were to good to resist. The the desert - German apple cake - wonder if she has any left.

Our weather has been absolutely wonderful since we arrived and it has been as warm as 30 degrees and this has been the nicest weather they've had here all summer. So they tell us we can't leave so the weather stays nice.

Tomorrow we are heading back out to Kathleen Lake and going to pick raspberries and black berries on one the islands with our friends and then on to Burwash Landing the next day so will fill you in on those trips later.